
The start is Barnard Castle known locally as “Barny”. It is located at the lower end of Teesdale and is steeped in history, the town’s architecture is predominantly 16th and 17th century and the little market town has been recognised nationally as one of the 50 most historically and architecturally important towns in Britain.The remains of the Castle perched on a rocky crag was built in 1150 features a 14th century round tower.
The towns centre boasts all the qualities of a market town with a cobbled market place, the un-miss able “Market Cross” which was formerly the town gaol and any talk of “Barny” must also include the Chateau-like Bowes Museum built in 1869 which holds an internationally important collection of paintings, furniture and porcelain and should not be missed. You will see the sign post to it by the old market cross which now forms a small roundabout.
The castle.
The majestic and un-miss able Bowes museum.
We leave Barny by way of the B6277 for Middleton in Teesdale, crossing the river Tees over the single-track bridge with the castle on the right. Do not get mixed up with the B6278 also to Middleton, but on the north side of the town. This road begins at first to be a standard type B road, but after Cotherstone, it starts to twist and turn following, though not often seen, the river Tees. Care must be taken here, farmers spills, gravel and Sunday drivers very often await you. It passes through the villages of Romaldkirk and Mickleton before finally reaching Middleton in Teesdale the next largest Market Town and considered to be the main centre in the upper part of the Dale
In 1815 the Quaker owned London Lead Company established its northern headquarters here and the impact of this Victorian prosperity can be seen in the architecture of many buildings around the town. The company built houses, schools and libraries for its workers and became the first British company to introduce the five day working week.The drinking fountain in the centre celebrates this lead-mining history.
Perhaps considered to be boring to some, but the Blue Gentian, a delicate flower native to Upper Teesdale is found no where else in the world but here and in the Alps indeed this whole area of the north Pennines never ceases please me as it is a haven for wildlife such as the Curlew, Peregrine, Merlin and Golden Plover, if you are lucky enough you may also be able to catch sight of Deer, Otters, Badgers and Red Squirrel. Many species of flower can also be found such as the purple Mountain Pansy, and various Orchids.
The fields around the banks of the river Tees have to be seen in the spring as the farmers do not use any form of weed killer nor fertiliser and the fields are simply a mass of wild flowers.
A meadow in the spring - what a sight!
Go straight through the village following the signs for High Force. If this is your first visit stop at the Bowlees picnic area on the right hand side of the road and park up.
From the car park cross the stream by the foot bridge and follow the road for the well-marked path to Low Force, the little sister of High Force. Here the Tees is crossed by an iron suspension footbridge built in 1830 which replaced what was reputedly the earliest suspension bridge in Europe. Not far from Low Force the Tees is joined by Bowlees Beck, this runs by the side of the car park. When you have returned from Low Force follow the path and you find the Summerhill Force, where the stream flows over a band of limestone. This waterfall has partly undercut the limestone behind it to form a picturesque cavern known as Gibson's Cave. If you are lucky, you will also see majestic dragonflies patrolling the stream banks, quite a sight!
Back on the bike and on up to High Force, England's biggest waterfall. Good parking by the hotel to be found there and worth the walk down to the force. It is heavily commercialized and personally I hate it. A far better view can be had walking up to it from Low Force on the opposite side of the river, a walk of two miles. High Force is in fact two falls, each situated on either side of a massive central rock, but the smaller northern fall is only occasionally seen in action.
The flow of the river Tees is now controlled by a dam further up the valley at man made Cow green reservoir. Years ago the river used to flow as a torrent in times of heavy rain as the picture shows.
Back on the bike and the road begins slowly to climb and the vista changes to open moor land. To your left is Widdybank Fell, and in the distance running almost parallel with the road Great Dun Fell and Pennines highest point, Cross Fell, upon which the rivers Tees and South Tyne are born.
Summerhill Force at Bowlees.
Low Force.
A tamed High Force.
An un- tamed High Force.
At Langdon Beck you may turn off the road to visit the man made Cow Green reservoir and view Cauldron Snout just beyond the dam, the Tees here rushes in a series of cataracts over a 200 yard long rocky `stairway', but be warned it is a bit of a walk.
Onwards the road climbs further up to the open moors. A nice place to stop and relax is the little village of Garrigill signposted to the left, it is often overlooked but it is well equipped with resplendent cafe and a lovely quite village inn. The road finally begins to drop into Alston, a good place to stop for a break, but watch the parking as Alston is built on a very steep hill with cobbles on the main street.
Widdybank Fell..
The approach to Landon Beck.
Garrigill - Often overlooked..
Alston - watch the cobbles.
Map showing the route from Alston.
We leave Alston on the A686 for Penrith. The road climbs and twists to reach the top of Hartside Pass at a height of 1,904 ft. From here there are magnificent views across the Solway Firth into Scotland and from the viewpoint at the Hartside Top cafe car park you can see Helvellyn, Great Gable and Skiddaw. This is a very popular gathering place for motorcyclists, but beware as it also attracts those among us who delight in making excessive noise and getting from A to B as quickly as possible, but then again only on "good weather days".
Hartside Pass - (picture from the Cafes web site).
Down Hartside Pass we sweep into the River Eden valley reaching the small village of Melmerby. This village boasts a real treat - Set back from the road, the local bakery cum restaurant. It is truly organic and the restaurant was opened in 2001 by the Prince of Wales. Since 1976 the owner, Andrew Whitley, has been making outstanding organic bread and cakes by using traditional baking methods and the retained heat of wood-fired ovens. You have to call in, it would be a crime not to.
Next along comes the village of Langwathby, nothing of real note here, but turn right for Little Salkeld and you will find a delightful little hamlet complete with a fully operational watermill and an ancient stone circle that can boast as the finest in the north of England. It has a diameter of about 350 feet making it the second biggest in the country. You will also find some weird and wonderful chambers carved out of the sandstone cliffs by the River Eden known as Lacy's Caves. Call in the shop by the water mill and pick up a leaflet describing a small circular walk to see all three, or should I say 2 as you are already at the mill.
Long Meg stone circle.
Now you leave the A686 by turning left for the B6412 to Culgaith, from there you join the A66 and travel Eastwards climbing the Pennines, aptly described as the spine of England back the Barnard Castle or Scotch Corner and the A1.
Hope you enjoyed to journey, I have.
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